Thomas Jaime makes mezcals in both artisanal and ancestral styles. Every visit to his palenque outside Francisco de Sola is a joyous occasion. This, his ancestral espadín, is an easy choice for a table mezcal—one to serve with nearly everything. It mixes well with bitters and citrus juices. Pure, sweet Agave angustifolia picks up the history of the clay distilling pot, making every batch subtly different from the last.